Author Topic: SOUNDPROOFING - the most effective methods?  (Read 11575 times)

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Offline cdtBEAST

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Re: SOUNDPROOFING - the most effective methods?
« Reply #50 on: January 21, 2009, 10:23:28 AM »
Fair enough.
I will keep it simple then.

You need something to create a barrier to the outside that absorbs sound (brick or limestone)

You need something to absorb the sound left bouncing around on the inside, so you don't end up with an echo chamber (acoustic insulation bats will help, as will limestone over brick as it absorbs more & reflects less)

Flat walls facing eachother cause major echo acoustic amplification. So difracting the sound in different directions will help (furniture, shelving etc will help, walls built on a slant will also help, limestone rocks, boulders will work best)

Standard 90 degree corners will amplify bass & make it hard to control. Hence more will escape & whats left will wash out the room with muddy bottom end.

Sound travels in all directions including UP through the roof.

Bass sounds travel further than treble so they need the most work

The less treatment your room has the quicker it will reach it's max spl, which means the quieter you have to be. Which sucks if you are a drummer & even worse for an entire band.

Good smart treatment will help keep the temperature of the room under control. The wrong treatment can make it worse.

Good drop sheets will help




Offline WarNick

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Re: SOUNDPROOFING - the most effective methods?
« Reply #51 on: January 21, 2009, 06:39:28 PM »
Cheers Simon.

Much appreciated mate.

Offline EvilElvis

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Re: SOUNDPROOFING - the most effective methods?
« Reply #52 on: January 27, 2009, 08:09:52 AM »
Use the leftover MEAT for soundproofing. Staple it to the walls :hmm:



classic album!
« Last Edit: January 27, 2009, 08:17:47 AM by EvilElvis »

Offline nihilist

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Re: SOUNDPROOFING - the most effective methods?
« Reply #53 on: January 27, 2009, 10:07:24 AM »
Hey, that is a classic album.
My hands are choking, my knife is broken.
An orgasm is what I need.
Your blood is spilling, the sight is thrilling.
To cum I need to see you bleed.

Offline ecentrix

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Re: SOUNDPROOFING - the most effective methods?
« Reply #54 on: January 27, 2009, 10:37:01 AM »
Get nihilist to stand in the room
What we do in our lives echoes in eternity

Offline nihilist

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Re: SOUNDPROOFING - the most effective methods?
« Reply #55 on: January 27, 2009, 09:05:04 PM »
I will silence you with unfounded criticism.
My hands are choking, my knife is broken.
An orgasm is what I need.
Your blood is spilling, the sight is thrilling.
To cum I need to see you bleed.

Offline ecentrix

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Re: SOUNDPROOFING - the most effective methods?
« Reply #56 on: January 28, 2009, 11:52:41 AM »
Hahaha <3
What we do in our lives echoes in eternity

Offline Dr fun party

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Re: SOUNDPROOFING - the most effective methods?
« Reply #57 on: May 08, 2009, 02:34:23 PM »
Hey theres a place in welshpool where you can get second hand industrial fridge walls, you can just pull of one side the metal and your left with foam pannels that interlock its really cheap (you will get the whole room done for about $300 to $500 bucks).
Will be good for top tend but may need some more mass for the bottom end but i think the limestone would be the best for that. 

Offline Davelahem

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Re: SOUNDPROOFING - the most effective methods?
« Reply #58 on: May 11, 2011, 03:53:22 PM »
G'day, just thought I'd add my 2 cents worth as I've been researching this for a while now with the aim of building my own back yard studio/jam room which I wanna be able to use 24/7 , so it'll need to be mega soundproofed.

Basically the biggest issue you're gonna have with a tin shed is the shed itself, it's gonna resonate and rattle and become a big speaker for all your neighbours to hear! Deadening this would be the first step before even commencing any type of building. The best thing to use would be a product called Dynamat - it's used in car stereos to deaden the body of the car to eliminate rattles etc but it's not cheap. Alternatively the easiest way I could think of would be with body deadener like they use on cars, you know, the black tar shit that lines the underbody and door panels etc. It's pretty cheap and easily available (Bunnings, paint or auto shops etc) and easy to apply, just need some big cheap paint brushes. It would possibly be worth using the adhesiveness of it to stick some shit to the tin to help absorb any sound that hits it aswell at this stage (insulation or dacron, the white foam shit inside speaker boxes would work well).

When constructing the room itself I would definitely be looking at limestone blocks rather than double brick, it'll be cheaper and more solid, thus absorbing more sound. Also due to the size of the blocks it's much easier to lay them than using small fiddly bricks (unless you've got bricklaying experience), if you can use a tape measure, string line and level you should be pretty right!

The basic rule when soundproofing is separation between different mediums... the more the sound has to go through the more it will be adsorbed and dispersed. The easiest way to achieve this is by doing what you were originally thinking, build a room inside the shed. This is where it becomes important not to attach any part of the new room to the shed itself because sound will travel through whatever you use to attach it and will end up rattling the shed as I mentioned before. The hardest part to soundproof will be the roof and you'll probably have to borrow Simons idea and load the roof up with foam, matresses, carpet etc.

Finally, something that most people don't even consider when converting sheds etc into usable rooms is termites. I'm a professional pest controller and have been to so many jobs where sheds are converted into granny flats, games rooms, teen retreats, offices etc. only for the termites to get into the walls and eat the stud framing away. If you use any timber make sure it's treated/structural grade and try to eliminate any timber-ground contact. If the shed is on 2x2 concrete slabs I would strongly advise lifting them and pouring a solid slab, if it's on a solid slab already be very aware of gaps (particularly around the edges) and expansion gaps as termites only need a 1.3mm gap to get through and LOVE seeking out cracks in concrete etc to see what's on the other side.

Good luck, hopefully it kicks arse!!

Offline goat

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Re: SOUNDPROOFING - the most effective methods?
« Reply #59 on: May 12, 2011, 02:21:31 PM »
Fuck the nieghbours i say. A frequent dose of metal might smarten them up a bit.
Those cunts. :)